Roasted Squash and Mushroom Ramen

Makes 4 servings

• For the base:
• 7 1/2 cups vegetable stock
• 14 oz. fresh ramen noodles
• For the tare:
• 2 tablespoons white miso
• 2 tablespoons mirin
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• For the roasted squash:>
• 1 butternut squash, peeled, halved, seeds removed and flesh cubed
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Pinch each of salt, ground black pepper, and dried chili flakes
• For the toppings:
• 7 oz. chestnut mushrooms, sliced
• 2 – 3 scallions, green parts only, finely sliced
• 1 fresh red chili, finely sliced
• 2 teaspoons black sesame seeds, toasted
• Handful of purple shiso or Thai basil leaves

First, prepare the roasted squash. Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/Gas 6. Put the squash in a large roasting pan, add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and add the chilli flakes. Toss together using your hands. Put in the oven and cook for 30–35 minutes or until the squash is golden and tender.

Meanwhile, put the stock in a large pan. Mix together the tare ingredients, add to the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, then taste and add more seasoning if necessary.

Put the noodles in a pan of boiling water and cook for 2 – 3 minutes or according to packet instructions, until cooked, then remove with a slotted spoon and divide them up between the serving bowls.

Ladle over the broth, then add the squash to the bowls and top with mushrooms, spring onions, chillies and shiso leaves. Sprinkle over toasted sesame seeds and serve.

COOK’S TIP: You could add the mushrooms to the roasting pan for the last 15 minutes of cooking, which will result in a richer taste.

Miso Spicy Seasoned Chicken and Vegetable Ramen

Makes 4 servings

• For the base:
• 1/2 chicken, 1 pound
• 2 leeks
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 1/2 oz fresh root ginger, peeled
• 7 1/2 cups water, approximate
• 14 oz. fresh ramen noodles
• For the tare:
• Drizzle of light soy sauce
• Salt and ground white pepper, to taste
• For the chicken seasoning:
• 2 tablespoons sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
• 2 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
• A pinch of salt and ground white pepper
• For the toppings:
• 8 dried shiitake mushrooms
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 oz. carrot, peeled and cut into strips
• 1 zucchini, cut into strips 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• 1/2 dried chili, finely chopped
• Salt and ground white pepper, to taste
• For the sauce:
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 2 teaspoons Korean chili powder
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
• 2 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

First, make the base stock. Portion the chicken into large pieces and place in a large pan. Add the leeks, garlic and ginger, and enough of the water to cover. Bring to the boil over a medium heat and boil for about 35 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Remove the chicken and strain the liquid into a pitcher.

Meanwhile, as the chicken is cooking, put the dried shiitake mushrooms in a bowl of warm water for about 30 minutes until softened.

When cooked, skin and bone the chicken and tear the meat into thin strips. Mix the chicken seasoning ingredients in a bowl with salt and pepper. Add the chicken strips, coat with the seasoning and set aside.

Now prepare the toppings. Drain the shiitake mushrooms and slice them, discarding the stems. Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan or skillet and lightly stir-fry the mushrooms, carrot strips, zucchini strips, and onion slices. Drizzle over the sesame oil, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Combine all the sauce ingredients in a dish, adding a little water if required.

Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a large pan, then add the tare soy sauce and seasoning. Add the noodles and cook for 2–3 minutes or according to packet instructions, until cooked, then remove with a slotted spoon and divide them up between the serving bowls.

Ladle the hot broth over the noodles. Top with the chicken strips and all the topping vegetables including a little dried chili. Stir a spoonful of the sauce into each bowl just before eating.

Miso Steak and Tomato Ramen

Makes 4 servings

• For the base:
• 7 1/2 cups chicken or pork stock
• 14 oz. fresh ramen noodles/li>
• For the tare:
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
• 2 inch piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 tablespoon white miso
• 1 tablespoon red miso
• 1 tablespoon mirin
• 2 teaspoons tahini
• 1 teaspoon chili paste
• For the miso steak
• 14 oz. rump steak
• 1 tablespoon white miso
• 1 tablespoon mirin
• For the toppings
• Handful of cherry tomatoes, halved
• Large handful of sugar snap peas, sliced on the diagonal
• 2 tablespoons pickled bamboo shoots (menma)
• 1 sheet of nori, torn into four pieces
• 2 teaspoons black sesame seeds

First, prepare the steak. Mix together the miso and mirin in a shallow bowl, then add the steak and turn to coat it in the marinade. Cover and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.

When you are ready to cook, put a frying pan or skillet over a high heat until it is hot, then add the steak and fry it for about 4 minutes on each side, until it is just cooked (the time will depend on the thickness of the steak and personal preference). Remove to a plate and set aside to rest.

Put the stock in a large pan and place over a medium heat while you prepare the tare.

To prepare the tare, heat a small pan over a high heat. Once hot, put the garlic and ginger in the pan and cook, stirring, for a few seconds. Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining tare ingredients. Simmer, stirring continually, for 2–3 minutes.

Whisk the tare into the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes until piping hot. Taste and adjust the seasonings as needed.

Meanwhile, put the noodles in a pan of boiling water and cook for 2–3 minutes or according to packet instructions, until cooked, then remove with a slotted spoon and divide them up between the serving bowls.

Ladle the hot broth over the noodles. Slice the steak and lay it on the noodles, then top with the tomatoes, sugar snaps and pickled bamboo shoots. Sit a piece of nori at the side of each bowl and sprinkle over sesame seeds to serve.

Vegetable Gratin

Makes 4 – 6 servings

• 1/2 cup kosher salt, plus additional for seasoning
• 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
• 1 large leek, white and pale green part, thinly sliced and well rinsed
• 1 small zucchini, thinly sliced
• 1 small yellow squash, thinly sliced
• 1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and thinly sliced
• 3 large ripe beefsteak tomatoes, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, divided
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped
• 3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 450°F and line the baking pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Discard the cap of the eggplant, and cut the eggplant into 1/3-inch slices. Combine 1/2 cup kosher salt with 1 quart cold water in a mixing bowl, and add the eggplant slices. Soak the eggplant in the salted water for 10 minutes, pressing the slices down into the brine with a plate. Drain the slices, and use a towel to absorb as much water as possible.

Spread 2 tablespoons of the oil on the bottom of the baking pan. Place the eggplant, leek, zucchini, yellow squash, and potatoes in a mixing bowl. Spread the tomato slices on a platter. Toss the mixed vegetables with the thyme, rosemary, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, and 3 tablespoons of the oil. Sprinkle the vegetables and tomato slices with salt and pepper. Layer half the vegetables into the baking pan and cover with a layer of tomatoes. Then repeat the layering and sprinkle the olives on top. Cover the pan with foil and bake it for 20 minutes in the center of the oven.

While the vegetables bake, combine the remaining parsley, remaining oil, breadcrumbs, butter, and Parmesan in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove the gratin from the oven and take off the foil. Press down on the vegetables with a spatula and return the pan to the oven. Bake the vegetables for 25 minutes, then sprinkle the crumb mixture on the top and bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until the crumbs are browned. Allow the gratin to sit for 5 minutes before serving.

***The reason to pretreat eggplant before cooking it is to rid it of its inherent bitterness, especially if the eggplant is large. There’s always some salt involved in the process, and I’ve found that soaking it in salt water is the most effective method. The soaking also keeps the eggplant from absorbing oil if it’s going to be fried.

NOTE The gratin can be assembled for baking up to 4 hours in advance. If baked in advance, it’s best to serve it at room temperature rather than reheat it.

Peruvian Vegetable and Quinoa Stew

Makes 4 – 6 servings

• 1 cup red quinoa
• 2 ears fresh corn
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium red onion, diced
• 1 orange or red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, diced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 6 cups Vegetable Stock (store-bought)
• 1 pound redskin potatoes, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 medium zucchini, diced
• 3 ripe plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced
• 1/4 pound queso fresco, crumbled, for serving
• 1 avocado, diced, for serving
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro, for serving

Place the quinoa in a strainer and rinse it well under cold running water. Set aside. Cut the kernels off the corn, reserving the cobs. Heat the oil in the Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the vegetables soften. Stir in the garlic, paprika, coriander, and cumin, and cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.

Stir in the stock and potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and add the corncobs. Bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to low and simmer the mixture for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the corncobs and stir in the quinoa.

Bring the mIxture back to a boil and simmer for 8 minutes. Add the zucchini and tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, then add the corn kernels and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and ladle the stew into low bowls, topping each serving with queso fresco, avocado, and cilantro. Serve immediately.

Mollusks, like fresh clams and mussels, need to go through a process called purging, which makes them “spit out” any grit from inside their shells, before you cook them. The result: tender mollusks that don’t taste as if you’re chewing on sandpaper. To purge the mollusks, scrub them well and then place them in a bowl of cold tap water and stir in a bit of salt. Then sprinkle cornmeal over the top of the water and allow the mollusks to sit for 30 to 45minutes. Remove them from the water, and rinse them again. The purging can be done up to 6 hours before you plan to cook clams or mussels. Refrigerate them, covered with a damp paper towel

NOTE The stew can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, adding more stock as needed, because the stew thickens as it sits.

VARIATION * Add 1 pound of boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces, to the Dutch oven along with the onion and bell pepper, and substitute chicken stock for the vegetable stock.

Crispy Fish Tacos

Makes 4 – 6 servings

• 2 cups panko breadcrumbs
• 1/2 cup pine nuts
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 11/2 pounds (3/4-inch-thick) firm-fleshed fish fillets, such as scrod, halibut, or striped bass
• 2 large eggs
• 1/3 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons chili powder
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon Mexican hot sauce, such as Cholula, divided
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• Vegetable oil spray
• 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• Sliced avocado, for serving
• Sprigs of fresh cilantro, for serving
• Shredded jicama, for serving
• Lime wedges, for serving

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the rack in the upper third of the oven and line a sheet pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil.

Combine the panko and pine nuts in a heavy, resealable plastic bag. Crush the mixture with the flat side of a meat mallet or the bottom of a small skillet. Transfer the crumbs to the baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer the mixture to a plate and season with salt and pepper. Wipe off the sheet pan with a paper towel.

While the crumbs are baking, cut the fish fillets into 1-inch-wide strips. Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, chili powder, cumin, 1 teaspoon of the hot sauce, garlic, and additional salt and pepper in a mixing bowl, and whisk until smooth.

Place a wire cooling rack on the sheet pan, and grease it with vegetable oil spray. Dip the fish pieces in the mayonnaise mixture and then roll and press them gently into the crumbs, to help them adhere to the fish. Arrange the fish on the wire rack.

Bake the fish for 15 to 18 minutes, or until it flakes easily. Soften the corn tortillas by wrapping them in foil and baking them during the last 10 minutes that the fish is in the oven. While the fish bakes, combine the remaining hot sauce, sour cream, and lime juice in a bowl and stir well.

To serve, divide the fish among the tortillas and pass around bowls with the sour cream sauce, avocado, cilantro, jicama, and lime wedges.

***Cholula is a Mexican hot sauce that is native to the Jalisco region. Now owned by tequila giant Jose Cuervo, the sauce is a key ingredient in sangrita, a blend of citrus juices used as a chaser for shots of tequila. Cholula wasn’t introduced in the United States until 1989, but it soon became the darling of Mexican food aficionados. The ingredients are a combination of pequín and arbol chiles blended with spices and vinegar.

NOTE The fish can be prepared for baking up to 6 hours in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered with plastic wrap.

VARIATION * Substitute strips of boneless, skinless chicken breast or chicken thigh for the fish and increase the baking time to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and no longer pink.